Meringue Tower/Gingerbread Crossroads



Thursday, January 01, 2009
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It took a lot of wishy-washying and googling before I could decide where to go for my birthday dinner this year. There were alot of consideration which essentially boils down to : Extravagance vs. Comfort. I definitely wanted French cos i missed having those good ol' mum-made pseudofrench festive meals back home. And since I believe in being totally sabbatical on my birthday, i refused to prepare my own birthday meal. That means I had to locate a nice french restaurant in shanghai.
On the top of my mind was JG. JG Shanghai is one of the franchises of JG Vongerichten's New York flagship restaurant. He doesn't head the kitchen but he flies there from time to time to train staff. I shan't elaborate. There's been one too many introductions of this restaurant. The problem with it was, obviously, the price. Then I (stupidly) decided to read reviews on the restaurant. Typically, there were people who swore by the place and others whose discontentment can be summed up by "disappointed-overrated". Well, its easy to be discouraged from choosing something expensive, but at the same time, its so difficult to let it go! Its just one of those places you wish to go subconsciously although you try to chuck the thought away by saying "Nah. too expensive". (But of course it has to be AFFORDABLE at the end of the day or it wouldn't even cross my mind. ) So i went to check That's Shanghai, the expat's guide to Shanghai which has quite a complete listing of French Restaurants.

There was La Platane, fine dining as well, headed by Singaporean (!!!) Chef Justin Quek , that's right beside Xin Tian Di (Shanghai's version of Clarke Quay?). It was about the same price range as JG, served fusion french (think Foie Gras Xiao Long Bao) and was kindly spared from nitpicking reviewers - "nice amiable head chef, efficient service and nice ambience". The only drawback was the dining place was more casual and fine dining rooms were only available under certain conditions (i can't remember if it was the headcount or days). So i decided to pay them a visit after an email only to find out they weren't open on 1st Jan! =( But i got to take a look at the place. it looked pretty fine actually. More on the white-out ballroom look, with tall walls and chairs and velvet curtains and all. But the reception was good. Friendly and unpretentious.


So i had to consider somewhere else! I decided that a meal shouldn't cost that much, so i decided to approach a bistro. There was Franck along Wu Kang road that was reputated for serving honest french bistro food without fancy concoctions and a humble price. The reviews seemed to suggest good food quality with a rather arrogant French Chef (duh. Franck.) and service that was going downhill due to better business. I ain't fussy with service as long as i get my food on time and they get me whatever i need in 5 minutes (isn't it just a bistro?). Alot of expats on forums are abhorrently uptight about service quality and ALWAYS attribute bad service to Chinese air/blood (e.g. "Their service is good, for Shanghai"). Hello. I don't know about you guys, but i don't think people were born to serve, so if they can't serve in an angmoh-owned restaurant, er...who's to blame? Ok ok, back to my point, i was fine with all the above problems, i had a problem with the chef coming up with the menu only er.... 1 hour before dinnertime? I needed to know that they weren't gonna serve rabbit meat or lamb cos D's doesn't eat such stuff. And i was craving for foie gras which the manager Simon assured me they had everyday but still! Bye bye Franck for now!


There was Hamilton House whose food was "inconsistent". Laris, T8 and M on the Bund which cost the same as or even more than JG and didn't have that kind of worldwide recognition which fed my vanity. And others which featured French restaurant-owners that picked on non-french customers (Reviewer: "It was fun for me and my friends! We were french!" - seriously?! what a stupid thing to say!) or places whose "food was good 3 years back".

There were like a million reviews of 20 odd french eateries in Shanghai. It was bad enough trying to make out some sense of consistency in the reviews so I could evaluate the restaurants , and they had to top it off with restaurant owners/managers sneaking into forums pretending to be satisfied customers (who happen to have a list of phone numbers, addresses of every branch in town!). People were bitching at one another. There were people recommending non-French food. Many of the expats didn't even EAT at the places, as i could tell from their reviews : "Go to JG if you can afford it". I think people should refrain from recommending places they haven't tried. Its very weird. No credibility at all! If expensive = good, there would be no need for food forums will there? I think its okay to give some feedback based on hearsay and we should at least have a nice disclaimer "I heard" or "My friend's been there" before shooting off our mouths. So at some point, i decided. PHUCK IT. I couldn't take all the cacophony of "opinions". I think there was a madeleine-epiphany at this point : All was clear and I was resolute - JG it is. So i called up, made a reservation at their dining hall and threw my that's shanghai out of the window. A peace of mind.

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I decided to phone JG about the dress code. I was adamant in making this a perfect dining experience , especially for the price i was paying. I'm totally unashamed at how much this meal meant to me - wasn't going to nor could I pretend to be a frequent fine-diner, and in fact i was enjoying every minute of this uncoolness. Surprisingly they didn't have a dress code?! I thought it was rather inappropriate since it told alot about its customer selection (ie non-existent). So i went in jeans and a shirt and a black coat. D was in a casual jacket and shirt as well.


(spacejump!)


Upon entering the restaurant, I identified the logo! It was endearing to see the JG logo.














Why? Cos i've seen it SO many times when i was going through blogs and forums. *rollseyes*


like the color though. It looks like a nicely browned cheesecake top! Yum. We were ushered into a 4 seater by the window. I think it was a pretty good location besides the table beside us who had 1 more window by their table. We were facing the Pearl Tower side of the Huangpu River. Not fascinatingly picturesque but enough to distract me from staring at my food the whole night.


We chose the 588 set menu since it already had 2 of the most widely recommended dishes. The 988 taster menu was wayyyyyyyy too exorbitant. I will be completely satisfied with anything at that point of time. There were still 3 dishes to choose from a list of 15 and 1 dessert from a list of 5-6.
Disclaimer : The photos featured in this blog were not taken by us. We didn't snap photos during the meal, it just seemed too much of a waste to me to not live the moment but be concerned about preserving it (there and then, i mean) . I hereby acknowledge all the photos i took from other bloggers, including sweetsformysweet.blogspot, sinfully-munching.blogspot, ianyo on flickr , Thanks!









Before i talk about the dishes, i must commend their rye fruit and nuts bread. So good. Crisp and moist on the inside, perfect sweetness and oh so dense. It was so good BUT filling. We both had 2 cos we took the bread as a hint of how small the portions of haute cuisine will be. Haha. We were stuffed later on! The amuse-bouche was Almond puree. If that was supposed to be any sign of the craftmanship we were about to expect later on, its probably the amount of nuts used! Nothing amazing but comfortable to the tastebuds.

I chose:

1) Foie Gras Brulee, Dried Sour Cherries and Candied Pistachios









This was my first dish and i was dying to try the foie gras already. To be honest, the foie gras wasn't amazing. The other ingredients were diverting my attention! There was a Citrus jelly which i suspected was simply gelatine-tempered citrus juices - super sourish. Then there were the candied pistachios that were really good and went well with the sour cherries and the jelly. The brulee on the foie gras saved my liver (PUN!) from a soury death but all in all too many distractions. Plus, i was trying to decipher what ingredients and methods would duplicate this effect. hur.


2) Sea Bass, Parsnip Puree, Fragrant Coconut Juice












This was SPLENDID. It was one of the signature dishes according to forums. It gave my tongue a breather after that overpowering first appetizer. Fresh and 清淡 yet tasty enough to keep you going from head to tail. Yum. D was complaining that this dish was his! (cos he ordered foie gras as well only so i could try two sorts. haha) There was some topping on top of the fish that i couldnt identify :(

3) Beef Tenderloin , (can't remember but it was unidentifiable vegetables)
The beef is worth reminiscing. I asked for 七分熟 and it was still juice packed and had a wonderful texture. A little mush on the inside with a crisp exterior. Yum. It was well marinated too, so i didn't even need to get mustard! The vegetables on the side were cut in big and ugly shapes. Didn't like that at all. The sauce was forgettable. But the beef. oooohm.
4) A glass of red

D chose:
1) Fresh Picked Crab Salad , Mango, Cumin Crisps

The Crab was really fresh. So much so it was on a verge of being 腥. But lucky it wasn't! It was so seafood-sweet that it reminded me alot of the Hokkaido markets. Two balls of the crab salad with cumin crisps and some weird mustard ball (? can't remember for sure) at the side. Didn't like that much. The Cumin crisps were like really thin nachos, but if eaten with the crab and mango, was not bad at all.

2) Pan-fried Foie Gras (can't remember but it had a bread bottom and a fruity jelly)
This and the sea bass were UNFORGETTABLE. Sigh. Compared to the earlier foie gras that was too busy interacting with its domineering sweet and sour friends, this was more down-to-earth foie gras. FAT foie gras. I could feel every bite explode into fatty juices / juicy fats, but the bread bottom and jelly on top eliminated any greasy aftertaste. There was something else on top of it as well but it was mainly decorative i think (sorry chef). Its the fattest leee-baaa i've ever eaten. I could only compare it with the huge serving at Au Petit Salut at Holland Village that I can only describe as "fleshy" as compared to this goodness.


3) Cod fish with uninteresting sauce

Hmm. First bite's interesting then later on it gets draggy and boring.


For dessert, D had the signature JG Chocolate Lava Cake served with Vanilla Ice Cream (above) which i insisted was not much difference from the mine i made! Of course they used better chocs and they had a better oven and the right dishes that don't make the cakes stick to the side BUT still. I had a Praline Tart, with some Hazelnut crusty sauce and Ginger ice cream. The only mentionworthy part of this was the ginger infused vanilla ice cream. It was the only thing that gave the sweet-to-death dessert some depth. I couldn't even finish it for fear of turning diabetic overnight.
They tried to top off the night with complimentary homemade chocs and marshmallows. The chocs were so mediocre and it merely added to the sugar saturation problem my mouth was suffering from at that point. The marshmallows on the other hand , were very much worth aggravating the thirst i was having from the sugar and wine. It wasn't fluffy but almost mousse-like, and melted upon pinching. Raspberries and Citrus flavored. That was so good. Too bad i was half-distracted by the dehydration.

Recommended : Foie Gras (both brulee and panfried!) , Sea Bass and Rye Bread. Lava Cake for chocoholics. I say try the more exciting options. (i should have gotten the Mocha Brownie with Salted Caramel Icecream- yum!)
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The Ambience was good because everyone around us was well behaved. No smoking although we were in the smoking area. No loudmouths (besides us). I was much more relaxed than I expected and although i didn't start tossing cutlery all over the table, I was more or less able to shake off the pretentious side of me that was too concerned with etiquette and the impression i was giving. Towards the end i was slumped on the chair, slightly tipsy and stuffed, looking out on HuangPu river and being totally satisfied - a true gastrorganism in my opinion.

The Decor : I found the place really dark? Haha. The only color i could identify was the orangey-red of the logo above on the ceiling. The food had color only because of the candles. But i guess i don't give a damn about nicely carved chairs. The whole arrangement of the place was fine. Nicely spaced. (There was a sofa 5 seater that looked terribly cramped though). After looking at the casual dining room, I think I made a right choice. Paying for the view.
The Service : There were more waiters than occupied tables so I guess we got alot of attention. The waiters knew what they were doing. I liked the way they swooped the dome plate cover away in a concerted motion! So act sei. haha. And it was quite innovative the way they mixed n matched Mandarin and English. I think they do that to Chinese/ Chinese looking guests to give you some semblance of an overseas restaurant. I wondered why they didn't just tell me what all the ingredients were in Chinese since I did show them i could speak Chinese - hmmm maybe cos 鹅肝 and foie gras sound like TOTALLY different things. haha. I bet those unidentifiable veges by my beef were called 口水菜 or something like that. They served a lava cake to me by mistake and decided to give it to me to make up for their mistake. HMMM. I think that's over the top la. It only took them 5 seconds to realize their error anyways. I was thinking : Are there crazy snobs out there that would be totally outraged by an honest mistake like that and demand for a free lava cake to appease their anger? Hmmm I wonder. Maybe fine dining does demands a little snobbery and unreasonableness in order to distinguish its status from casual dining. But in that case, just give me my food and i'll gladly sit at somewhere less pretentious.
I had to agree with a certain reviewer's comments though : Good service but the waiters were a little cold. They were all looking so serious. I mean seriously liven up! Its my birthday! hahah. I should have demanded for a free birthday song sung by the whole crew. They'll have to shed their frostiness then! I think good service just means reading my mind and acting like my third hand. As for expressionlessness , i think i prefer a thin confident smile anytime.
All in all, I was more than happy with the entire experience. Good food, good company and good ambience! Its all you need to get tipsy a little faster than usual.
For fellow confused bloggers out there looking for reviews on JG:
Will I go back? For the Foie Gras, Sea Bass and to try a duck/lamb (if i'm not with D that is) some other year i guess.
Was it worth the money? This price will be twice if it was in Singapore so I guess yes. Top of the M wasn't even this memorable and we paid the same price.
Was it filling? Yes. Surprisingly. I could do with 1 less rye bread so i won't have to rub my tummy this hard now.
How should I decide? WHEREVER YOU WANTED TO GO BEFORE READING ALL THESE STUPID REVIEWS. SO STOP READING THIS NOW N PICK UP UR PHONE.

1/01/2009 11:33:00 PM